The Best Looks from Paris Fashion Week: Spring 2013

PART-III

Haider Ackermann Spring 2013

Haider Ackermann continued to show his sharp tailored-meets-louche styled suits. This time with a Japanese feel in the wide obi-style belts.


Haider Ackermann continued to show his sharp tailored-meets-louche styled suits. This time with a Japanese feel in the wide obi-style belts.

His palette was dark and menswear-inspired, with gray and black pinstripes and graphics. Some fabrics looked like Ackermann had cribbed them directly from the fanciest men's tie in his personal collection (if he wears ties, that is)








Isabel Marant Spring 2013

For spring, Isabel Marant, the coolest girl in every class, set sail for Hawaii, her Polynesian babes in every manner of tropical print and sarong-style. But only a designer like Marant could make something this literal less hoola and more hip.

Half of the allure here is Marant's styling. Which is to say, there is little of it. This isn't the kind of collection you need a manual or decades-worth of fashion references for. It's just a gold floral and "aloha" printed sweatshirt worn over printed short-shorts and paired with just a necklace and sandals. Easy, right? That's Marant's ethos—just make each piece something covetable and wearable within itself.








Christian Dior Spring 2013

Hello, Raf. Nice to see you again. Curious fashion lovers waited with baited breath for Raf Simon's first go at Dior's ready-to-wear (couture was fantastic—but who can afford it?). And it was triumphant. Colorful, young, subtly sexy and sophisticated all in one. He began as he ended, with variations on a theme. At first, it was about suit dressing, each look slightly tweaked so different girls can participate in these games. A slightly slimmer lapel, a longer jacket, a slimmer waist.

As much as Raf riffed on similar looks, they were just bookends to a collection that had a consistent message—color, ease and playfulness—each look was different. Take a t-shirt, basically, that he extended and ballooned out, done in sheer material and covered in a web of jet beads. How's that for a different kind of evening?







Lanvin Spring 2013

If there's any debate over Alber Elbaz's ability to make women look gorgeous, Claire Dane's canary Lanvin dress at the Emmy's puts any argument to rest. The girl's showing her pregnancy and looked not just drop-dead, but chic-er than anyone else there. There's just something about the way he cuts and drapes, as witnessed on the Lanvin spring runway.

Elbaz went for sex. The dark navy and black palette only amped up the frisson of...something. Sophisticated, powerful, confident.

This was about deep, deep Vs, a show of hip between a body suit and tapered trousers, an exposed back, a bit of butt cheek (for the Brazilians who, we know, are the ones spending all the luxury money these days?).







Nina Ricci Spring 2013

At first glance, Peter Copping's Nina Ricci is ultra feminine—frills, polkadots and pale pinks. But really, the guy's got a little S&M streak, which peeked through on his spring runway. Starting with the fishnet details that weren't just on the girls' legs.

Copping can cut, which was evident in the way a black suit had just the right amount of louche without looking messy. Gold piping zig-zagging across ruffled dresses looked more like zippers (daring you to unzip!).






 

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